I wish to expound a little about the bits or mouthful, for this is of much importance for the horseman: to have a more definite concept regarding the right bit for your horses. In doing so, I hope to contribute to the benefit of all those who may be interested and for that, I want to illustrate more with pictures, photos and practical hints.
However, I want to make notice that I don’t intend to take in all the bit-related but the basics of the subject. So if you have any questions or doubts related to the topic don’t hesitate to ask; it will be a pleasure to enrich the knowledge of such important topic.
First of all, I state that all themes, topics, studies, etc. and all otherwise related to horses are of very much importance, specially for the novice in this sport. Everything keeps relative importance, the body, the transportation, feeding, the colors, medical aspect, legal aspects and history. You name it! So the topic of tack, specially the bit, is also one of much interest to horsemen.
The thing is that this particular topic, believe it or not, has many different thinking lines. The trainers, each of who had their own school or their “little-notebook”, their own different ways of thinking with regard of which is the ideal bit. As a trainer, I also have my own school of thinking but I explain that I don’t intend to impose my personal criteria (well, just a little) but rather that which can be useful to everyone in a simple way and accurate to the truth.
The truth could be different to each individual according to their own interpretation, but I tell you that I’m pro horse, for me the horse’s mouth is sacred, and independently of the influence dictated by fashion, I prefer to use a training system thinking about the horse, giving him time to respond, studying his potential and going by stages; grades as I call it.
In base of these principles, I teach and exhort to pay attention to this topic. If you’re a horse owner, you must be aware that often the riders set a bit without fully knowing if suited to the colts’ mouth, or if it’s the appropriate time, without previously examining the horses’ mouth, without examining his dental state, without passing him through a pre-biting process, wanting to use a certain type of bit in order to raise or lower the horses’ head; without having full knowledge to tell the difference between a severe bit from a mild one, etc.etc.etc. This is why you often hear… “Put him a frog-leg bit to bring the head down” or “put him the long shank bit so he won’t pull at you”.
It seems like I’m criticizing and indeed it’s true, obviously, I can’t generalize because many riders are conscious of what I just pointed out and logically they are constantly doing adjustments in pro of the horse’s benefit, my respect for those conscious trainers. Perhaps you think why The Professional is so extremist with the bit topic? I would say that it’s due to the fact that this is the most important phase in the horses’ training.
Every stage is significant but during the biting process it’s where the final product outlines. It’s not much what one can do with a horse whose mouth has been damaged. Some time ago, I took 14 stitches to a horse in an attempt to save his tongue that was pending on a string…three quarters were chapped in a bit accident and this hasn’t been the only case I’ve attended. Too many by accident… others by bad intentions, but I’m not going into details.
So, the first thing to bear in mind is, no mouth no horse. If your horse loses respect for the bit, he surely becomes hard-mouthed and when you’re riding him, he will pull, tug and lean on the bit and even if you’re a weight lifter he’ll overpower you because he’s bigger and heavier than you, the horse is stronger than you.
Look at the next photo that shows the type of devastation that a horse was subjected to.
The above photo shows how the bars on a horse jaw look in comparison to the bars or seats of a different horse jaw, both are part of a dead horse’s skeleton but very handy to teach.
The smaller picture in the frame show a normal set of bars that has never been subjected to any damage. In comparison to the larger framed photo, where it clearly shows signs of weariness and an evident rupture on the jawbone; obviously an abnormal state.
The transverse line in the photo shows where the mouthpiece rests or bit which is the proper term, that area marked with a line corresponds to the bars, (seats). The same can easily be injured by a rider’s “heavy” hand. The bars are only protected by the tissue of the gums. It’s pure bone and for such reason one has to be careful not to hurt them.
The illustration shows with a blue line the area in the horses’ mouth where the bit is supposed to rest.
Going into the subject of the mouthpiece, the horses’ bit; I’ll give you the second advice. The first one was to take care of the horses’ mouth because if any part of the mouth is hurt like the bars, the tongue, the incisors, the molars, the gums, the roof of the mouth, etc. the horse loses sensitivity and adopts an offensive attitude, becoming furious, developing bad habits, in other words all of this in his attempt to loosen of the pressure he is subjected.
The second advice is that one most understand that any object introduced in the horse’s mouth can cause pain and discomfort if it’s not used appropriately.
For this reason the bars should be treated delicately. Have you ever seen some horses with their bit on and an open mouth while been rode? Or sticking out their tongue to one side of the mouth? Swinging their heads up and down and the crest hair looks like a flag? Have you ever seen the bridle of the riders when they become tense and they look constipated? Ever seen a rider forcing his muscles trying to stop the horse and when stopped they do so in trot or with the front legs? All of these and much more are signs that the horse is not on the bit. It’s an irony trying to start a colt only by the bit. But there is always someone who does it. It’s an exaggerated practice to put a bit in a colts’ mouth who doesn’t know how to stop, back up, turn perfectly to both sides, stop with their posterior legs, be flexible by the neck and above all have a good head set.
In fact, many riders, and I insist many, try to set the position of the horses’ head through the use of the bit. This and that, if this bit is to set heads this and that, this one is for lowering it, that this one is to stop from pulling… Actually, no mouthpiece or bit should be used for the only purpose of setting, accommodating, arranging the head of a horse to a particular position, none! Supposedly, there has to be many attempts to the horse with different bits until finding the right one.
The point is that it’s human logic, not the horses’. If you teach the horse all he needs to know by the jaquima, then a slowing transition with the jetera or snaffle bit and then when the horse learns to turn, stop, go, walk, collect, etc. all by the snaffle bit or the jetera, then you introduce him to the bit, if you prefer it without the bridle for the first time or not demanding much by the bridle the first time.
All that about head positioning, correct stoping, the balance, turn to sides, etc. is to be taught to the horse prior to putting the bit for the first time. Everything is to be taught by the false; by the jaquima and then when he responds right you introduce him to the bit. The horse in the photo has set a false or jaquima that consists of a noseband or leather strap with a pair of rings in each side were the reins are to be set and the crown piece that holds the bridle in position behind the horses’ ears and over his head.
Also it has the browband or front-band (over the forehead) and the throatlatch which goes behind the throat. With this side puller jaquima you train the horse in his beginnings, you train him real good and then you use it together with the bit in order to perform by the bit what he learned by the jaquima. Stage by stage, Rome wasn’t built in one day and neither any horse can be on the bit from one night to the next.
There about thousands of bit types, an entire manufacture of all sizes, forms, materials, designs, prices, countries, colors, and purposes.
Bit styles don’t run out even by throwing them away! Nevertheless, there’re actually only two types of bits, the pressure and the lever. Both bits explain themselves… the pressure bit is the one that parts in the in the middle and doesn’t have a bridge, cock, or spoon in the center. But allow me to show you a photo so you’ll have a better appreciation of what I’m trying to explain.
This is a snaffle bit, an egg-butt design; it’s my favorite and I recommend it to start schooling colts. It is known in Spanish as a fillet, a snapped fillet. It’s made out of stainless steel and copper, the outer rings have an oval shape- like an egg and that is why it’s known as an egg-butt.
The copper part, that’s actually the bit itself, is what I like most about this bit…the copper enables a chemical reaction in the horses’ mouth that stimulate the saliva glands and forms the typical foamy saliva in the horses’ mouth at the time helping to soften the seat or bars and to keep the mouth hydrated at a favorable temperature.
This kind of bit has a pressure effect in the mouth of a horse; it wields pressure over the tongue and on the bars. The origin of the snaffle bit is believed to have come from England, but there has been use for hundreds of years in the occidental hemisphere. To be precise, seeing this bit, one of pressure and not of leverage, being the last one the most popular among Paso horses, is not seen often; perhaps in racetrack horses.
The other type of mouthpiece or bit is of leverage, the one that for its mechanical action has a lever effect.
The bit that shows in the next picture is the lever type…
The effect which operates in the horses’ mouth with a bit like this one is that it has shanks (later on I will explain the different parts of the bit) which are of leverage.
Next, I will show you a picture with a drawing that I made so you could have a better idea of what I’m trying to explain:
The lever action, ilustrated by a blue line, has a mechanical effect of lifting the weight of the counterpart as illustrated by the red block (the same as the yellow line but to the opposite direction). The purple triangle represents the bars in the mouth of a horse. The blue line represents the bit, and the red block the roof of the mouth where it makes contact with the spoon of the bit.
When you pull the reins; bridle, towards you in order to collect the horse’s gait you automatically activate the lever effect. The illustration shows one bit and the reins identified by blue and yellow lines. The arrows point to the direction as when you pull on the reins, the action of leverage takes effect.
As you may have noticed I’ve mentioned the term leverage quite a few times. I’ll tell you why…all the bit styles no matter their configuration, weight, color, material, decorations, price, or anything else… no matter the turnings or the curves that any bit may have! There’re only two types of bit; the pressure effect and the leverage effect.
All bits come to this end, either it’s lever or pressure. Now then, where do the others remain? You may ask. The rest are combinations of the two; I have shown you.
Check out the next examples:
It has the shanks that make the lever effect and also it breaks in the center of the port to make the pressure effect. A good example of combination between two types of bits without considering the materials of which it’s made out of, the style (western) decorations, etc. This bit is able to make the two effects, pressure and lever. Let’s see the next one:
You’ll notice that this bit didn’t break in the center; it’s not like the snaffle. The bar is covered in rubber; by the way, that’s the name this bit is known as, a BAR. Well then, this bar has a pressure effect in the horses’ mouth since it doesn’t have any port or spoon in the middle of the mouthpiece that acts under the shanks mechanism, which is of leverage.
The shanks, even though they’re short it does provide this lever effect and that’s why it’s a combination of both pressure and leverage.
I present to you a few examples of bit combinations:
- A -B
- C - D
- E - F
• The A, is a lever bit. The shanks in coordination with the spoon exert a leverage effect.
• The B, is a combination due to the shanks that cause the leverage but it doesn’t have a port or spoon, when it breaks in the middle, it divides in two halves to put pressure in the tongue and the bars.
• The C, is totally a pressure bit. The reins in this type of bit go into the “O” rings as for the rest of the bridle and not in the shanks which only serves to keep the bit in position. Take a look at the picture, the drawing I made to show you better.
• The crownpiece and the reins both go in the same O ring leaving the shanks without effect. The pressure is concentrated in the bar piece that is the bit itself and is divided in the middle.
• The D, is also a combination. The rubber bar, although it does not break in the center, and by not having any spoon, exerts only pressure and the shanks although short, exerts leverage, it’s a soft, light, mild kind of bit.
• The E, is a leverage one and it has very long shanks which gives a more powerful lever mechanism and the port is elevated or high which makes this bit one too strong to any heavy-handed rider, it will easily hurt any horse with it.
• The F, is a pressure bit, it has no shanks, port, or spoon, it only exerts pressure in the horses’ mouth.
These are the main parts of a horse bit, that’s the proper term, bit! Actually the bit itself is the part that goes into the horses’ mouth over his tongue. In the next picture the port corresponds to the mouthpiece…the shanks which make the lever and the O rings or eyelets where the crownpiece and the reins attach. All the pieces together form the bit.
In order to be complete this bit needs some pieces, to work properly needs a barbada or chin strap and to adjust to the bit it needs the hooks...
Here we have two sizes of barbadas.
These are the hooks that fasten the barbada to the bit.
The barbada (yellow) is put on the hook (red) on the right side of the bit and closed tight so you don’t lose the barbada. After placing the bit in the horses’ mouth, you adjust the barbada from the hook that remains open on the left side of the bit, which remains open. Do not close the left hook completely.
Don’t adjust the barbada more than necessary, it should be at least two fingers separated between the horses’ chin and the barbada. To gauge the barbada you should know the horse a little better, the more you adjust the barbada the more power you transfer to the bit. Capice?
Some riders may think that it’s a good practice to tie the barbada really tight so the horse will bring down his head…Be aware, someone who may think like that doesn’t have an ample concept of how these instruments work inside the horses’ mouth.
The illustration represents a horse in pain and mistreated by the mouth, although, it’s only a cartoonish representation, it’s a serious matter. I happen to know someone who once told me that when a horse pulls by the reins he immediately gives back a strong jerk on the reins that makes the horse see the stars. The only thing I can say is that in the absence of “bridle” (talent), that’s the only occurrence you can come up with.
He was astonished by my response; he was left something like tasteless, but…some way one has to make conscience. The horses’ mouth is sacred! A bit wrongly fitted, an over-tight barbada, or heavy brusque hands cause a lot of damage to a horses’ mouth; but a rider who thinks of controlling a horse by hurting his mouth is the worst.
This picture is showing a spoon bit. The spoon is identified by the yellow square. The spoon comes in different sizes, the bigger the spoon the stronger the lever effect in the horses’ mouth.
The roller is identified by the blue square; this has the purpose of stimulating the horse to salivate by rolling (action of roll) the tongue over the roller. Also it helps by keeping the mouth at comfortable temperature. The bobbins or toffee-bars or rollers, are identified by the red squares and their purpose is to fill the space between the gums over the bars area and it has a very comfortable form to accomplish its task. Also the bobbins spin around their own axle allowing the horse to have more mobility in the mouth and the material which they’re made (cooper) helps salivate to soften the seats (bars) and keep the mouth at favorable temperature.
This type of bit has as a principal characteristic- a high port in combination with a spoon. The V form (cathedral) high port, it’s by itself a severe bit, strong and with the spoon the lever effect is powerful. This one has short shanks, but if it were the contrary, his effect would be super. A lot of trainers choose to use a bit like this one (with a spoon that can reach the brain of the horse) when a horse pulls too much. “In the absence of bridle!!!...”
This bit has a high port but at the same time is not narrow, this allows free tongue movement and to cool better. The reference point to determine if the port is narrow is between the rollers. The wider the space between the rollers, the smaller the port, the smaller the port, the less leverage effect, less severe is the bit.
These rubber discs that you see here are known as bit guards, or bit protectors. What they really protect is the horses’ mouth of possible punctures that they could get by the bit corners particularly in the area of connection between the shanks and the port.
What you see in this picture is a type of bandage or tape made of latex; its purpose is to wrap around the roller area to make it more comfortable for the horse. Once in place, when entering in contact for the first time with the horses’ saliva becomes uniformly adhered and protects the horses’ mouth.
The horse bits were invented in biblical times and they have evolved along the years. The bits in the medieval period were a torture for the horses.
Little by little man has improved his designs so that now they’re more conventional (humane).
The upper picture shows one of the many bits that has developed its design with the well-being of the horse in mind. "El Maestro,” The Master as this bit is known differs a lot in contrast with the one in the photo below which dates from ancient times and even though the place of origin is uncertain, but his severity will not go unnoticed.
Exchangeable parts for bits have been designed for the horseman’s convenience. The one we see in this picture besides the bar, also have two exchangeable types of spoon one bigger than the other with rollers. The purpose is to change the effect of the bit exchanging the other parts with the same shank.
Now, according to what I have explained about the narrow ports, high ports, etc. Which of these bits would be the severe one and why?
A. B.
I would like to add that the bit on photo A. has a wider port where the horse can easily pass his tongue underneath and that contributes to his convenience.
A.
As I was indicating at the beginning, and to repeat it is not be superfluous, the larger the bit shanks the bigger the lever effect. Independently of the spoon or the port, the shanks, “las patas”, are the one that determine the severity and power of the bit in the first place. I say, in the first place because the spoon, the chin chain, the port, and even the rings can determine the lever power of the bit as much as the shanks.
# 1 # 2
Bit #1, has exactly the same port as bit #2. The difference in the power gauge between one and two stands in the shanks. Bit #1 has the larger shank that gives a greater levering effect.
The next picture shows some types of shanks, and mouthpiece, imagine the possible combinations.
Although I mentioned the names of some bit parts, remember that they’re also known by other names depending on the different countries and the person’s slangs, like for example the spoon, some people call it shovel, some may call it cock. The bit shanks are called by some as animal extremities according to the form and style of the bit. Like goat leg, fish leg (yes, I know fishes don’t have legs…), frog leg, stool leg, etc.
There are a lot of styles and forms in existence, both only two types depending on the effect that exert in the horse. Pressure and leverage, as for the rest; they’re combinations with their features. I know that I’ve told you before but a person learns about 30% of what they repeat…
First of all, the bit is a communication tool! That has been written. Where has it been wrote? In the Bible, so it can’t fail, in the New Testament, in the book of James, chapter three, and verse three. It says that we put bits in the horse’s mouth so that they may obey us and we turn about their whole body. Second of all, since the bit is an implement of communication, as is the horse-whip, the metal-nose band, the spurs, etc. their use should be accordingly.
This instrument shouldn’t be used as a torture weapon. Pain is not the way of communicating with the horse, this is the message I wanted to send here. I say this because many, and notice that I didn’t call them horsemen, use this equipment as if they were lethal weapons to torture and to submit the horse in the training process.
Subdue is the term they use, using the bits as weapons to teach the horse by pain and intimidation. “What you have to do is give him a jerk that he (the horse) may see Jacob’s ladder” “What I have to do with this horse is whip him until he spells his own name” or so they say, and the list continues. Look, they’re out there and you don’t have to look for them in the yellow pages.
The point is that horses should be taught by trust and discipline, by repetitions and affection.
To choose the ideal bit and the one that better suits your horse you must bear this in mind as a basic principle. As I always say, the bit is a communication tool and the rider transmits his wish through it to the horse. If the bit is not the right one or if the horse is not on the bit, which is the horses’ acceptance to the bit; you may encounter some difficulties in communicating your will to the horse. It could be said that the bit acts as a phone to mutually communicate.
This may sound silly to you but if you have no respect for the horses’ power and at the same time understanding for his sensibility, you may never arrive to a binomial between you and your horse. Why do you think they call them Noble Brutes? It’s a combination of noblest grace and brute strength, power! To domain and control all of that you may need more than a couple of tugs that only manages to make the horse, hard-mouthed, insensitive. With any bit you may use on any horse you may ride, you must communicate loud and clear through the bit. If it were not so, the only thing you may get would be a half-trained horse. A horse that when you ride him you may notice he brings the head up and down when you collect it, or fights the bit with a stiff neck, open mouth, and raised, extended nose, and do not respond when you try to stop him and down that path to the worse of the scenarios when the horse will run unstoppable.
The Picture shows: #1 the curb strap which makes for the hackamore & #2 the bit altogether to train schooling colts.
Assuming then that you assimilate all this info and that your horse or filly have been trained by the hackamore and knows how to turn, stop, backing up, maintain it collected and won’t pull! Then it’s ready for a mild, kind bit.
What is the point of using a severe rough bit if it has been previously educated by the hackamore? If the case is where the filly hasn’t been previously educated by the hackamore, don’t even try… it’s not advisable to put a bit to a filly or any other colt that hasn’t passed through the hackamore process. You’ll be doing harm and hold her potential back. Bitting a horse is an art and personally I think it should be carried on with self proudness.
I place a snaffle bit and let them along to eat with it on all day long after riding him in the morning and I take it off at night to accustom him (the horse). Each time I can during the day, each time I pass by that horse stall I give him molasses; honey to help salivate and it will imprinted in his mind that having that object in his mouth involves a treat each time he uses it, a sweet life.
Inclusively, I put a jetera, a rope bit, before even putting on the snaffle bit. That’s what the old timers use to call “slit-mouth”. I make them with soft cotton or nylon rope and two bronze rings for the reins.
Something like this one in the next picture
Keep riding the horse for a reasonable time with one of these and then make a transition to the bit (together with the hackamore) which should be like I told you at the beginning, not a severe one. One of those “taburete” shanks with a small spoon would be the right one, for a young colt or filly in an advanced stage of training and knows how to stop, turn correctly and all the rest.
Avoid at all cost putting a young colt or filly, it’s the same… a long shank and high port or big spoon bit. Or a chain style one instead of a rubber bar bit. The common sense will tell you that it’s not reasonable logic to put a chain bit onto a new colts’ mouth. That little colt that opens his eyes to a whole new world, if you communicate with a chain bit to lower his head (which would happen if you put a bit like that to a young colts’) that start to tossing his head up and down and then puts his head down against his chest, will permanently remains like that. Then when you’ll try to fix that mistake would be sending the wrong message to the horse. So, who make the mistake?
When I say that lower his head is not like he carries it right positioned but that by this way the horse shows a passive resistance to the bit. The riders never have control of a horse that puts his head down like that, over bending.
That term in English is known as under the bit, in Spanish bajo el bocado. It would be the appositive of a horse carrying his head too high, which is called “estrellero” or the one who looks at the stars implying that such a horse raise his head up too high, if it rains he could drown by his nostril. The right term would be over the bit or sobre el bocado. As I explain at the beginning, the bit won’t set or adjust the horses’ head so he may carried correctly. Only when the horse learns to relax his pole that it’s at the top of his head between the ears, and then he arrives at a comfortable position, relaxed, arched of the head and neck and that is called on the bit! The horse is en el bocado, is an acceptance of the bit he is not annoying, is comfortable and executes your commands willing full without offering any type of resistance.
I would recommend this type of bit for a young filly or colt that uses a bit for the first time. The short sank is indicative of non severity kind of bit, the levering effect is not so strong. The shovel or spoon is small and have rollers to stimulate the horse to salivate. It also has some little rollers that accomplish the same purpose, plus, padding the space of the bars and protects the seats. (Bars and seat is referring to the same)
When adjusting the curb-chain, gauge in a way that produce a mechanical motion with the bit. Allow me to shuffle this better! When adjusting the curb-chain the shanks come forward more projected to the front and the power of leverage would be bigger, but also would become more severed. In the other hand, if you adjust the curb-chain where the horse communicates that is enough… yes, the horse will tell you. How he tells? Well here I go, when adjusting the curb-chain hold the rains from the left side of the horse with your left hand and with the right one adjust the curb-chain. Then softly push the bit back by the rains towards the horse, and observe the horses’ reaction. If the horse raises his head up too fast in response, means that the signal was effective. Loosen it a little and try again. Maybe this time moves his head less, just a little without showing any sign of pain. That is the right gauge.
I wouldn’t recommend this type of bit for a young colt that use a bit for the first time. Although, it has a 45 degrees angle, like a boomerang, pata de pescado or fish leg as is commonly known…still they are longs and it can be used on a more experienced horse, but not on a schooling filly.
I conclude with some advises.
• To create a binomial (bi = 2 terms, nomial = genus or coming together.
• Two terms coming together or in this case two subjects’ horse +rider fusing to become one) must have communication.
• The communication through the bit is obtained by light hands and a clear understanding of what is expected to accomplish.
• A mild bit in a heavy hands or brusque is the same as a severe bit. Any damages its cause by the rider hands and not by the bit itself.
• Takes time to bitting a horse. Be patient Rome wasn’t finished in a day.
• Refine and bitting a horse calls for knowledge and dexterity. Orientate, learn, improve, develop your potential, no body born knowing it all; but above all respect the horses’ mouth.
• Examine the horse’ molars and the bars prior to introduce him to the bit.
• NEVER!! Bend the horses’ neck by the bit. Use a hackamore if necessary.
• If you have any doubt or your horse is giving you trouble by the bit, let me know to look for a possible solution. If it has a solution then is not a problem after all, Capisce?
• Examine the horses’ mouth before introduce him to any bit.
• Check to see if his tooth-changing (the incisors)
• There should be no molar sharp edges.
• The tongue should not be injure and must have a pink natural color. A purple tongue is synonymous of poor blood circulation. That’s what I called “not cooling enough”.
• Check for the horses’ gum for some time they hurt themselves by biting wood from fences or corral to entertain themselves.
• Have your horse’ mouth examine by a veterinarian or equine-dentist in case you’re not certain what you are looking at.
• Note if the horse have some birth anomalies, something cause by mistreat or by self-inflicted, a congenital cause like for example; a parrot mouth, incisors over incisors, an enlargement of the lower jaw, etc.
• Check the inside-cheek for scratches, if they’re too red or if it has hematomas.
• Also check the roof of the mouth, the palate, and underneath the tongue. Everything must be healthy, uniformly and with no questionable odors.
• The horses’ mouth smells like humid grass in a closed container. It shouldn’t be like the smell of rotten meat or something like that. (So you may have an idea).
• The exterior of the mouth is also important, so verify if is any pinch, any cuts, warts (some type of warts need big supply of blood and if you cut them out it may cause a little hemorrhage).
• Also the chin area should be include in the examination… it shouldn’t have any damages.
• If you adjust the curb-chain over any cut or laceration cause by the “alzador” (the curb-lifter or sort of) the horse may start to wag his tail, and breaking the cadence and it won’t be any communication through the bit.
Before finish I would like to show you this picture of a different kind of bit combination that at the same time as acts as an asphyxiating or suffocating hackamore.
This is a powerful tool; you can see the damage cause in the animals’ chin. Is not that the hackamore is a bad tool but if it is misuses then the story would be different. Many riders opt to use one of this hackamores instead of any flexible or fixed bit, there many reasons for that but I’m not going to talk about them know. The thing is that this type of bit combination has become very popular among andaduras’ race tracks and is good idea to study its mechanical.
This combination has snaffle bit or a type of pressure bit, which is good and advisable for race horse’ do to the fact that it will not force the horse to arch his neck like a bit with a leverage effect. It will give more freedom, to the animal, is a way of saying it. But then take place the long shanks that close the noseband and the curb-chain in a same motion tighten his nostril limiting the air intake and so they called asphyxiating effect.
This action by itself is what transform this combination in a powerful tool, But I insist, is not that this is a wrongly tool, or not a proper tool or not an advisable one but it should be use taking it effect into consideration.
This one is even powerful, besides the asphyxiating effect between the noseband and the cur-chain, the shanks are too long and in combination with the port it has, the leveraging effect is a very strong one. Riders use this type of combination on hard to stop horses’.
Here we can see a hackamore which is the proper term for this tool, that has no combination but because of it asphyxiating effect it’s transform in a powerful instrument, dominant. There some other styles with short shanks and the shorter the shanks or legs, the less leverage effect and vice versa. Some has a leather noseband which makes them average on a severity level but when combine with chains, knots, etc. increase the severity level. I trust that what I have explained here will give you an ample concept in reference to the bit.
Cordially,
The Professional
Last edited by The Professional on Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:08 pm; edited 5 times in total _________________ The Professional of the bridle
Check all the rest and then come to the best!
Thanks for your kind words Felix, I do appreciate it. It is my pleasure to share anything I may have on horse's subject with fellow members and any guest. I really enjoy it although it cost me some time to translate the whole article but is all worth it if the readers become more conscious on how to treat their horses’ mouth.
_________________ The Professional of the bridle
Check all the rest and then come to the best!
Pro, thanks for sharing your research and ideas with us. I want to devote more time to digest your article in the next few days. I would like your feedback on a couple of subjects concerning bits and shanks.
Thanks again!
_________________ Be the change you want to see in the world. Gandhi
Thanks BigJ and always my pleasure. I know it's kind of long, but it's because the forum format and I decided not to dived it in two because I think it's better to have it all in one page. I insist that this article is just basic material, there is much more to learn about bits and how they work.
_________________ The Professional of the bridle
Check all the rest and then come to the best!
I agree! For me, this is like sweet nectar from heaven!
Be careful what you ask for Pro! I have many thoughts and questions to bring to the table for discussion!
Now you got me nervous BigJ, hehehehheheehe! Bring it on! (For the sake of learning.)
_________________ The Professional of the bridle
Check all the rest and then come to the best!
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I wish to expound a little about the bits or mouthful, for this is of much importance for the horseman: to have a more definite concept regarding the right bit for your horses. In doing so, I hope to contribute to the benefit of all those who may be interested and for that, I want to illustrate more with pictures, photos and practical hints.
In base of these principles, I teach and exhort to pay attention to this topic. If you’re a horse owner, you must be aware that often the riders set a bit without fully knowing if suited to the colts’ mouth, or if it’s the appropriate time, without previously examining the horses’ mouth, without examining his dental state, without passing him through a pre-biting process, wanting to use a certain type of bit in order to raise or lower the horses’ head; without having full knowledge to tell the difference between a severe bit from a mild one, etc.etc.etc. This is why you often hear… “Put him a frog-leg bit to bring the head down” or “put him the long shank bit so he won’t pull at you”.
Too many by accident… others by bad intentions, but I’m not going into details.
The transverse line in the photo shows where the mouthpiece rests or bit which is the proper term, that area marked with a line corresponds to the bars, (seats). The same can easily be injured by a rider’s “heavy” hand. The bars are only protected by the tissue of the gums. It’s pure bone and for such reason one has to be careful not to hurt them.
Swinging their heads up and down and the crest hair looks like a flag? Have you ever seen the bridle of the riders when they become tense and they look constipated? Ever seen a rider forcing his muscles trying to stop the horse and when stopped they do so in trot or with the front legs? All of these and much more are signs that the horse is not on the bit. It’s an irony trying to start a colt only by the bit. But there is always someone who does it. It’s an exaggerated practice to put a bit in a colts’ mouth who doesn’t know how to stop, back up, turn perfectly to both sides, stop with their posterior legs, be flexible by the neck and above all have a good head set.
The horse in the photo has set a false or jaquima that consists of a noseband or leather strap with a pair of rings in each side were the reins are to be set and the crown piece that holds the bridle in position behind the horses’ ears and over his head.
This is a snaffle bit, an egg-butt design; it’s my favorite and I recommend it to start schooling colts. It is known in Spanish as a fillet, a snapped fillet. It’s made out of stainless steel and copper, the outer rings have an oval shape- like an egg and that is why it’s known as an egg-butt.
The effect which operates in the horses’ mouth with a bit like this one is that it has shanks (later on I will explain the different parts of the bit) which are of leverage.
The lever action, ilustrated by a blue line, has a mechanical effect of lifting the weight of the counterpart as illustrated by the red block (the same as the yellow line but to the opposite direction). The purple triangle represents the bars in the mouth of a horse. The blue line represents the bit, and the red block the roof of the mouth where it makes contact with the spoon of the bit.
It has the shanks that make the lever effect and also it breaks in the center of the port to make the pressure effect. A good example of combination between two types of bits without considering the materials of which it’s made out of, the style (western) decorations, etc. This bit is able to make the two effects, pressure and lever. Let’s see the next one:
You’ll notice that this bit didn’t break in the center; it’s not like the snaffle. The bar is covered in rubber; by the way, that’s the name this bit is known as, a BAR. Well then, this bar has a pressure effect in the horses’ mouth since it doesn’t have any port or spoon in the middle of the mouthpiece that acts under the shanks mechanism, which is of leverage.
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-B
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The barbada (yellow) is put on the hook (red) on the right side of the bit and closed tight so you don’t lose the barbada. After placing the bit in the horses’ mouth, you adjust the barbada from the hook that remains open on the left side of the bit, which remains open. Do not close the left hook completely.
The illustration represents a horse in pain and mistreated by the mouth, although, it’s only a cartoonish representation, it’s a serious matter. I happen to know someone who once told me that when a horse pulls by the reins he immediately gives back a strong jerk on the reins that makes the horse see the stars. The only thing I can say is that in the absence of “bridle” (talent), that’s the only occurrence you can come up with.
The roller is identified by the blue square; this has the purpose of stimulating the horse to salivate by rolling (action of roll) the tongue over the roller. Also it helps by keeping the mouth at comfortable temperature. The bobbins or toffee-bars or rollers, are identified by the red squares and their purpose is to fill the space between the gums over the bars area and it has a very comfortable form to accomplish its task. Also the bobbins spin around their own axle allowing the horse to have more mobility in the mouth and the material which they’re made (cooper) helps salivate to soften the seats (bars) and keep the mouth at favorable temperature.
This type of bit has as a principal characteristic- a high port in combination with a spoon. The V form (cathedral) high port, it’s by itself a severe bit, strong and with the spoon the lever effect is powerful. This one has short shanks, but if it were the contrary, his effect would be super. A lot of trainers choose to use a bit like this one (with a spoon that can reach the brain of the horse) when a horse pulls too much. “In the absence of bridle!!!...”
This bit has a high port but at the same time is not narrow, this allows free tongue movement and to cool better. The reference point to determine if the port is narrow is between the rollers. The wider the space between the rollers, the smaller the port, the smaller the port, the less leverage effect, less severe is the bit.
These rubber discs that you see here are known as bit guards, or bit protectors. What they really protect is the horses’ mouth of possible punctures that they could get by the bit corners particularly in the area of connection between the shanks and the port.
What you see in this picture is a type of bandage or tape made of latex; its purpose is to wrap around the roller area to make it more comfortable for the horse. Once in place, when entering in contact for the first time with the horses’ saliva becomes uniformly adhered and protects the horses’ mouth.
The upper picture shows one of the many bits that has developed its design with the well-being of the horse in mind. "El Maestro,” The Master as this bit is known differs a lot in contrast with the one in the photo below which dates from ancient times and even though the place of origin is uncertain, but his severity will not go unnoticed.
Exchangeable parts for bits have been designed for the horseman’s convenience. The one we see in this picture besides the bar, also have two exchangeable types of spoon one bigger than the other with rollers. The purpose is to change the effect of the bit exchanging the other parts with the same shank.
B.
A.
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# 2
There are a lot of styles and forms in existence, both only two types depending on the effect that exert in the horse. Pressure and leverage, as for the rest; they’re combinations with their features. I know that I’ve told you before but a person learns about 30% of what they repeat…
This instrument shouldn’t be used as a torture weapon. Pain is not the way of communicating with the horse, this is the message I wanted to send here. I say this because many, and notice that I didn’t call them horsemen, use this equipment as if they were lethal weapons to torture and to submit the horse in the training process.
The Picture shows: #1 the curb strap which makes for the hackamore & #2 the bit altogether to train schooling colts.
Examine the horses’ mouth before introduce him to any bit.
There should be no molar sharp edges.
Have your horse’ mouth examine by a veterinarian or equine-dentist in case you’re not certain what you are looking at.
The horses’ mouth smells like humid grass in a closed container. It shouldn’t be like the smell of rotten meat or something like that. (So you may have an idea).
The exterior of the mouth is also important, so verify if is any pinch, any cuts, warts (some type of warts need big supply of blood and if you cut them out it may cause a little hemorrhage).
Also the chin area should be include in the examination… it shouldn’t have any damages.
This combination has snaffle bit or a type of pressure bit, which is good and advisable for race horse’ do to the fact that it will not force the horse to arch his neck like a bit with a leverage effect. It will give more freedom, to the animal, is a way of saying it. But then take place the long shanks that close the noseband and the curb-chain in a same motion tighten his nostril limiting the air intake and so they called asphyxiating effect.
This one is even powerful, besides the asphyxiating effect between the noseband and the cur-chain, the shanks are too long and in combination with the port it has, the leveraging effect is a very strong one. Riders use this type of combination on hard to stop horses’.
Here we can see a hackamore which is the proper term for this tool, that has no combination but because of it asphyxiating effect it’s transform in a powerful instrument, dominant. There some other styles with short shanks and the shorter the shanks or legs, the less leverage effect and vice versa. Some has a leather noseband which makes them average on a severity level but when combine with chains, knots, etc. increase the severity level. I trust that what I have explained here will give you an ample concept in reference to the bit.
Be careful what you ask for Pro! I have many thoughts and questions to bring to the table for discussion!
